Portage!
Early start this morning as we had to be at the quayside in Picton by 7.45 So, alarm goes off at 6.30, we pile out of the tent into the car and drive across to the kitchen for breakfast! That’s not as lazy as it sounds, it just means that we’re a bit further away from the other campers as we open doors etc to get ready! We’ve found that it’s easiest to work the camping part of this trip as if we were backpacking – nothing comes out of the rucksack or case unless absolutely necessary – so far it’s worked like the proverbial dream! We were actually at the pier by 7.30, ready to meet our NZ guide, Richard, who was taking us and another couple out for the day.
We caught the mail boat across the sound, and then transferred to a Disco (sorry J & D, forgot to take a pic!) to cross the very narrow ridge between Queen Charlotte and Kenepuru sounds. The ridge might be very narrow at this point, but it was very steep – apparently the name “Portage” came from the fact that the Maori used to carry their waka across here from one sound to another – I don’t think I’d have liked to try it – carrying a solid tree trunk canoe up over a 300’ ridge! Richard was a little surprised that we knew what portage meant, until we explained that any section of river in the UK where you have to carry your canoe rather than paddle it is referred to as a “portage” – you can tell he wasn’t a Scout!
The other couple Anthony and Sarah were similarly aged to us and came from Windermere. This area could be the Lake District it is so similar and there is even a place called Skiddaw. Of course the water is sea water and not fresh but scenically very similar.
After a coffee before getting into spraydeck and buoyancy aid, we were off. Our first “target” was a mussel farm right across the sound and into another bay. Richard then proceeded to “scrump” about 24 very large green lipped mussels from the lines, leaning out of his kayak to do so. After the first handful, he passed them across to us on our paddle, so that they didn’t slide off his spraydeck, while he got some more. So now we’re “aiding and abetting”! To be serious, they obviously had an arrangement with the mussel farm and he was both very careful and restrained in what he took!
So, booty in the bag, so to speak, we crossed to the other side of the bay, to a tiny beach (it was high tide) where Richard produced “elevenses” – a beautiful home-made tray bake with loads of nuts and spices in it (yum! – trying for the recipe tomorrow!), tea and freshly cooked (scrumped) mussels! Oh boy, we’ve never tasted anything like them!
Elevenses consumed, we set off again to explore more of the sound. When we left Portage, it was almost flat calm. By now the wind had got up a bit, there were quite a few waves, and some interesting bouncing as we paddled through them. Unfortunately both Ron’s and my spraydecks were a little worn..result = soggy people from waist down! Thank heavens we weren’t at home, we’d have frozen!
Perhaps we should say that the sun was out and the temperature in the mid 20’s with a water temperature similar. Being so far from the open sea, the sounds, although very deep, get very warm.
Lunch, including a oil-cloth table cloth was produced from inside Richards kayak. Very little was left, it being of similar standard to elevenses.
We paddled back to another (low!) portage, which we used to circumvent a long paddle around a now quite windy point, and then back to Portage bay. A sting ray swam underneath us but we couldn’t see a huge amount as the water was greenish and slightly cloudy. Kenepuru is Maori for muddy waters and aptly named as some of the other places the visibility through the water has been at least 10’ (3 metres). Further searching for mussels produced giants the size of Ms hand, as well as oysters.
After all our exertions well, it was time to mosey on down to the bar of the Portage Resort for a swift half. Well, two pints to be honest. It did seem to slip down easily. Yours may have done, Ron - I had to make do with one, I was driving!
Phew, managed to get away with not mentioning St Valentine in the blog. Truth is I hadn’t got a card, but I also knew that neither had Margery. We mutually agreed that this trip would be more than enough; when we arrived at the start of the day on Portage beach there was a special valentine made from rocks on the water’s edge.
We are sitting in the Jolly Roger typing this blog having had a rather luxurious seafood platter for two, with, of all things, battered oysters!!!! Oh dear, what a waste!
Early start this morning as we had to be at the quayside in Picton by 7.45 So, alarm goes off at 6.30, we pile out of the tent into the car and drive across to the kitchen for breakfast! That’s not as lazy as it sounds, it just means that we’re a bit further away from the other campers as we open doors etc to get ready! We’ve found that it’s easiest to work the camping part of this trip as if we were backpacking – nothing comes out of the rucksack or case unless absolutely necessary – so far it’s worked like the proverbial dream! We were actually at the pier by 7.30, ready to meet our NZ guide, Richard, who was taking us and another couple out for the day.
We caught the mail boat across the sound, and then transferred to a Disco (sorry J & D, forgot to take a pic!) to cross the very narrow ridge between Queen Charlotte and Kenepuru sounds. The ridge might be very narrow at this point, but it was very steep – apparently the name “Portage” came from the fact that the Maori used to carry their waka across here from one sound to another – I don’t think I’d have liked to try it – carrying a solid tree trunk canoe up over a 300’ ridge! Richard was a little surprised that we knew what portage meant, until we explained that any section of river in the UK where you have to carry your canoe rather than paddle it is referred to as a “portage” – you can tell he wasn’t a Scout!
The other couple Anthony and Sarah were similarly aged to us and came from Windermere. This area could be the Lake District it is so similar and there is even a place called Skiddaw. Of course the water is sea water and not fresh but scenically very similar.
After a coffee before getting into spraydeck and buoyancy aid, we were off. Our first “target” was a mussel farm right across the sound and into another bay. Richard then proceeded to “scrump” about 24 very large green lipped mussels from the lines, leaning out of his kayak to do so. After the first handful, he passed them across to us on our paddle, so that they didn’t slide off his spraydeck, while he got some more. So now we’re “aiding and abetting”! To be serious, they obviously had an arrangement with the mussel farm and he was both very careful and restrained in what he took!
So, booty in the bag, so to speak, we crossed to the other side of the bay, to a tiny beach (it was high tide) where Richard produced “elevenses” – a beautiful home-made tray bake with loads of nuts and spices in it (yum! – trying for the recipe tomorrow!), tea and freshly cooked (scrumped) mussels! Oh boy, we’ve never tasted anything like them!
Elevenses consumed, we set off again to explore more of the sound. When we left Portage, it was almost flat calm. By now the wind had got up a bit, there were quite a few waves, and some interesting bouncing as we paddled through them. Unfortunately both Ron’s and my spraydecks were a little worn..result = soggy people from waist down! Thank heavens we weren’t at home, we’d have frozen!
Perhaps we should say that the sun was out and the temperature in the mid 20’s with a water temperature similar. Being so far from the open sea, the sounds, although very deep, get very warm.
Lunch, including a oil-cloth table cloth was produced from inside Richards kayak. Very little was left, it being of similar standard to elevenses.
We paddled back to another (low!) portage, which we used to circumvent a long paddle around a now quite windy point, and then back to Portage bay. A sting ray swam underneath us but we couldn’t see a huge amount as the water was greenish and slightly cloudy. Kenepuru is Maori for muddy waters and aptly named as some of the other places the visibility through the water has been at least 10’ (3 metres). Further searching for mussels produced giants the size of Ms hand, as well as oysters.
After all our exertions well, it was time to mosey on down to the bar of the Portage Resort for a swift half. Well, two pints to be honest. It did seem to slip down easily. Yours may have done, Ron - I had to make do with one, I was driving!
Phew, managed to get away with not mentioning St Valentine in the blog. Truth is I hadn’t got a card, but I also knew that neither had Margery. We mutually agreed that this trip would be more than enough; when we arrived at the start of the day on Portage beach there was a special valentine made from rocks on the water’s edge.
We are sitting in the Jolly Roger typing this blog having had a rather luxurious seafood platter for two, with, of all things, battered oysters!!!! Oh dear, what a waste!
Now I'm really GREEN!!!Green lipped mussels straight from the sea - what luxury! My valentine is also probably closer to you than me now as he is now in Ushuia! Still we did have a lovely meal out before he left and I have 12 beautiful, scented deep red roses to keep me company for 2 1/2 weeks!!! Just been looking at Joi and Roy's photos and am planning trip to NZ even sooner now!!!! Just small matter of cash and time off!!Glad weather has cheered up for you - much love Tricia xx
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