We made the 7.45 ferry! Oooof that was a bit early!
It was worth it tho’ – we walked from Waitangi quay to the beach we could see 6 waka (war canoes) already on shore. They’d paddled over from Russell at 5am, but we thought that was a bit early to start our day. As we stood and watched (and took loads of photos!) more and more waka appeared either from the river, where they were being unloaded from huge trailers, or from the Treaty grounds, where they’d been overnight. Each of the waka rely on ”paddler power” only – in the form of between 20 and 80 hefty Maori guys – some tattooed from head to foot, most in native costume (albeit with the addition of black underwear for modern decency’s sake!) The friendly raucous encouragement/rivalry between the different teams was great to see, as were the traditional prayers chanted by the tribe’s ladies as each waka prepared to row out into the bay, and their songs calling them back in. As each crew boarded, their own individual haka was bellowed with great gusto – the smaller teams doing their best to create the same amount noise as the larger crews!
By just after 9 most of the waka had arrived and were waiting for NGO , the waka built for the centenary of the signing of the Treaty in 1940. This is the largest built in modern times – it’s over 70’ long, took three huge Kauri trees to create it’s hull, and takes 80 men to paddle it. (it can also take a further 70 people if necessary!) There were cheers and songs to greet it as it arrived,and the guys paddling it demonstrated how manouverable it was by doing “three point turns” virtually in its own length just off shore. It was an amazing sight.
There were thousands of people along the beachfront, along with stalls selling waka team t shirts, flags, and every kind of food and drink you can imagine. It was a real party/carnival atmosphere. The one sight that was unexpected was the formal dress of the women with the waka crews who were entirely dressed in black traditional costume pieces over the top. A great mixture of very formal and great informality and banter!
We moved on to the formal ecumenical service which had all denominations involved and was held in Maori and in English. The sung response in the intercessions to the tune of “Amazing Grace” and the Lord’s Prayer sung beautifully by a Maori choir to a setting composed by the Principal of the Northlands College.
In true church style all the white chairs had been set out in to blocks of rows facing the podium. In true Kiwi fashion the majority of these were then removed to the shelter of the waka house out of the sun. Only those who needed a sun fix, and representatives of the NZ navy, braved it out in the heat, a comment made by the Maori President of the service!
We were then entertained by a variety of local artists including one group named “Connections” who played similar material to the Kent “Connections”- how bizarre!
We felt in need of some historic insight and so took a guided tour of the Treaty Grounds to get a feel for the native viewpoint of the recent history since 1200! This was well worth the $15 as there was so much that we gleaned especially since we got free entry (normally $20 each) it being Waitangi Day!
We then rather late in the day need to refuel so we patronised the food stalls and had some excellent seafood chowder, fry bread (a non sweet donut), and crepe with the English traditional lemon and sugar. We did do a lot of walking that day so felt that the calories were balanced to our personal needs –so no comments about “pig outs” please! You forgot the cream scones, Ron! OK, well we did have a 3 Km walk back to Paiha to catch the ferry, and so it was worth it!
The evening concluded for us with Beating Retreat which was very well done by 100 sailors from two ships (Canterbury and Philimore) from the NZ Navy, NZ Navy band and the Maori Choir previously seen at the service.
We had a Fish supper back at the campsite with the compulsory salad and of course a bottle of red wine! It was only ½ a bottle – we’d drunk the rest the day before! Well, you wouldn’t have wanted a warm white, would you!
It was worth it tho’ – we walked from Waitangi quay to the beach we could see 6 waka (war canoes) already on shore. They’d paddled over from Russell at 5am, but we thought that was a bit early to start our day. As we stood and watched (and took loads of photos!) more and more waka appeared either from the river, where they were being unloaded from huge trailers, or from the Treaty grounds, where they’d been overnight. Each of the waka rely on ”paddler power” only – in the form of between 20 and 80 hefty Maori guys – some tattooed from head to foot, most in native costume (albeit with the addition of black underwear for modern decency’s sake!) The friendly raucous encouragement/rivalry between the different teams was great to see, as were the traditional prayers chanted by the tribe’s ladies as each waka prepared to row out into the bay, and their songs calling them back in. As each crew boarded, their own individual haka was bellowed with great gusto – the smaller teams doing their best to create the same amount noise as the larger crews!
By just after 9 most of the waka had arrived and were waiting for NGO , the waka built for the centenary of the signing of the Treaty in 1940. This is the largest built in modern times – it’s over 70’ long, took three huge Kauri trees to create it’s hull, and takes 80 men to paddle it. (it can also take a further 70 people if necessary!) There were cheers and songs to greet it as it arrived,and the guys paddling it demonstrated how manouverable it was by doing “three point turns” virtually in its own length just off shore. It was an amazing sight.
There were thousands of people along the beachfront, along with stalls selling waka team t shirts, flags, and every kind of food and drink you can imagine. It was a real party/carnival atmosphere. The one sight that was unexpected was the formal dress of the women with the waka crews who were entirely dressed in black traditional costume pieces over the top. A great mixture of very formal and great informality and banter!
We moved on to the formal ecumenical service which had all denominations involved and was held in Maori and in English. The sung response in the intercessions to the tune of “Amazing Grace” and the Lord’s Prayer sung beautifully by a Maori choir to a setting composed by the Principal of the Northlands College.
In true church style all the white chairs had been set out in to blocks of rows facing the podium. In true Kiwi fashion the majority of these were then removed to the shelter of the waka house out of the sun. Only those who needed a sun fix, and representatives of the NZ navy, braved it out in the heat, a comment made by the Maori President of the service!
We were then entertained by a variety of local artists including one group named “Connections” who played similar material to the Kent “Connections”- how bizarre!
We felt in need of some historic insight and so took a guided tour of the Treaty Grounds to get a feel for the native viewpoint of the recent history since 1200! This was well worth the $15 as there was so much that we gleaned especially since we got free entry (normally $20 each) it being Waitangi Day!
We then rather late in the day need to refuel so we patronised the food stalls and had some excellent seafood chowder, fry bread (a non sweet donut), and crepe with the English traditional lemon and sugar. We did do a lot of walking that day so felt that the calories were balanced to our personal needs –so no comments about “pig outs” please! You forgot the cream scones, Ron! OK, well we did have a 3 Km walk back to Paiha to catch the ferry, and so it was worth it!
The evening concluded for us with Beating Retreat which was very well done by 100 sailors from two ships (Canterbury and Philimore) from the NZ Navy, NZ Navy band and the Maori Choir previously seen at the service.
We had a Fish supper back at the campsite with the compulsory salad and of course a bottle of red wine! It was only ½ a bottle – we’d drunk the rest the day before! Well, you wouldn’t have wanted a warm white, would you!
Sounds like an amazing day! Lovely combination of traditions with the Hakas,the boat races and then Beating the Retreat!!!
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